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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.